In my mental list of designers I have always wanted to collaborate with H&M for one of their designer collaborations, I must admit I’ve never thought of (or even longed) for Alexander Wang x H&M. This is a pretty big statement for me, considering that as you know, I am an insatiable fan of Alexander Wang.
For the past few years, designer collaborations have become almost a routine activity of chain stores. H&M has always been at the cutting edge of this trend, however, having previously collaborated with Karl Lagerfield, Martin Maison Margiela, Anna Dello Russo and most recently, Isabel Marant. Each collection has been more or less sell outs in days, if not hours, with eBay bidding frenzies ensuing for months thereafter for those who don’t have a H&M in the vicinity.
Hearing that yesterday, that Alexander Wang was announced as the next designer to release an affordable collection for H&M, I felt a little torn up inside. Don’t get me wrong, I was just as excited as half the media outlets of the western world at the prospects of this collaboration. Immediately, tantalising possibilities started popping in my head: Affordable versions of the Lovisa ankle strap pumps? A possible new take on the Rocco duffle bag, perhaps a mini of the mini, call it ‘Rickie’? A rehash of the revealing pajamas or ‘Parental Advisory’ sweater of SS2014?
But that’s when the misgivings started taking over. What would an Alexander Wang x H&M collection look like? How different will it be to T by Alexander Wang, his diffusion line?
What makes Alexander Wang such a favourite of mine is that minimalist slouchy chic feel that he’s perfected with impeccable tailoring and a purposeful lack of complexity. What justified that higher price range, to me, was to a large extent the bold uniqueness, high quality of the material and construction that goes into the pieces. Substitute with cheaper production, and will that unique Alexander Wang design ethos carry through? What we could potentially end up with is something unfortunately similar to every other high street brand that’s copying Wang’s iconic pieces.
Of course, this is probably the same argument that could apply to most previously H&M designer collaborations. The excitement and hype guarantees sales, but what is not guaranteed is intrinsic value, which is something I would argue separates designer from high street.
H&M’s previous collaboration with Isabel Marant, for example, stands out in my mind as a fantastic success. I’m still dreaming of those lace-up leather pants and oversized coats. In a few years’ time when people forget the H&M connection, they may well join the ranks of ‘vintage’ Isabel Marant. This could not be said for a lot of other designer collaborations, with H&M or otherwise, where no one was interested after the dust settled. This then prompted many fashion writers to predict the premature death of designer collaborations in 2013.
All that said, the main goal of the Alexander Wang x H&M collection is, as put by A. Wang himself, to allow: ‘a wider audience to experience elements of the Alexander Wang brand and lifestyle’. After all, for a designer who’s been widely praised for having an instinct about what people want to wear (and buy), he would have understandably recognised that collaborations with H&M has made those labels a household names to a growing demographic of save-up-to-buy fashionistas. The question in my mind is whether a collection aimed at introducing the brand to a new audience, will be able to simultaneously cater to the expectations of existing customers as well.
I will be waiting with baited breath for the release of the Alexander Wang x H&M collection, which is scheduled for 6 November this year.